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Rosiejane

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Posts: 223
Reply with quote  #1 
Squaring blade to table (front to back)
I can get the blade square to the table left to right no problem but the bottom of the blade is leading the top which is a problem on certain projects. I was just wondering if there is a way to square the blade to the table front to back? I'm using a Sherwood 16" with the hanger style pinless blade adaptors that came with the machine. 

Olson PGT skip reverse blades...should I bother
I've also been using Olson PGT skip reverse blades and recently noticed that the reverse teeth don't actually rise above the table...I'm guessing that this means I shouldn't be spending my money on these blades since they're not doing what they're meant to be doing. For some reason when I got the blades, I never even thought to check if they were actually being used effectively.

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Cometoz

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Posts: 85
Reply with quote  #2 
Pushing back at the bottom of the cut normally indicates not enough tension on the blade or feeding too fast.

I did try Olson PGT blades and seemed OK but now usually use Flying Dutchman.

I'm intrigued with your comment re "don't actually rise above the table" - I usually use this form of blade and they work very well with a smooth cut.
Its above the WORK you need to worry about.

T
Rosiejane

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Reply with quote  #3 
Cometoz thanks for your reply. Where do you source your blades? The place I get the blades from locally (Timbecon) has packs of 6 for $8.90 so they're not cheap. Carbatec is also pricey.

My problem is after loading the blade, before even beginning a cut, when I look at it side on, the top of the blade leans further back than the bottom of the blade.

With the reverse tooth blades, my understanding is that the reverse teeth prevent tearout on the underside of the workpiece, however if the reverse teeth aren't actually coming into contact with the board at any point of the blade's up or down movement, then I can't see how it is of benefit. 

I've broken at least 3 blades today, all at the bottom. Does this mean that there is a problem with the way it is loaded in the bottom holder? Been experimenting a bit with tension and speed. I'm having heaps of trouble with excessive vibration as well (pretty much all speeds). Enough for the blower/hold down stem to shake loose and drop down. All-in-all, it's been a day full of frustrations.

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Cometoz

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Posts: 85
Reply with quote  #4 
I don't know the geometry of the Sherwood but on my Excalibur there is no finite position to put the blade and you can put it too far back in the holder - I think that Steve Good has quite a few videos on-line showing some hints and kinks on using the scroll saw.
I must say that I buy my blades by the gross (144) from Mikesworkshop and the come air-mail and are FAR cheaper than the Oz websites - they normally get here between 1 and 2 weeks.
I seldom actually break blades, they just need replacing - particularly if I'm using marine ply as the ply glue is pretty harsh on blades (and my CNC router bits!).
I think you'll be quite surprised at the US prices when compared to buying locally and they're easily mailed which makes for a great deal. They also sell small drills for inside work.
If you want to drop me an email I could put a few in the mail for you so you could try them out.

Good luck - it really shouldn't be that hard on blades!!!

T
Rosiejane

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Posts: 223
Reply with quote  #5 
Thanks I'll check out mikesworkshop. I must be doing something wrong with tension or speed for them to be breaking. I'll have another look at Steve's site for more tips.
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BadBob

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Reply with quote  #6 
On some scroll saws the front to back angle is adjustable. This angle affects hos aggressive the saw cuts. If you have the type that uses blade holders you need to clamp the blade into before mounting it's not likely that it can be adjusted without modifying the saw.

I have three saws and they are all different.

If you breaking blades you are probably pushing the blade. Trying to cut to fast or putting sideways pressure on the blade. To see if this is the case put blue painters tape on the table so that the blade has zero clearance. Cut a curvy piece. When you are done cutting look at the hole in the tape. If you cut perfectly the hole will be very nearly the same size as when you started. If you are pushing the blade to either side or pushing to hard the hole will be elongated in that direction. Beginners just about always try to go to fast. Let the saw cut at the speed it wants to cut. If it can't clear the saw dust out fast enough it will clog and the blade will over heat and break. These blades do not last very long. If you are having trouble following the line (more than usual) the blade may be dull. If you get burn marks the blade has been over heated.

+1 on the Flying Dutchman blades and Mikes. Mikes has a sample pack you might want to try.


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Rosiejane

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Posts: 223
Reply with quote  #7 
Thanks BadBob. I also noticed that the top arm was further over to the right than it should be (not centred in the casing. I took the saw apart, cleaned it out a bit held the arm where it should be as I screwed the cover back on. Grabbed a new blade and made a few cuts..much better. Maybe it got knocked out a bit with when one of the blades broke. I've got to do a bit of work to the plate, it's slightly below the table so I've been taping cardboard over it. The slot I cut in the cardboard is pretty torn up so I must be applying sideways pressure as you say. Since straightning up the arm, the blade alignment is a bit better too.
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Rod T

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Posts: 565
Reply with quote  #8 
I am not sure of the problems on the saw, but it sounds like you have sorted it out somewhat.

I just recently bought some Flying Dutchman blades from mikesworkshop.com 
A lot cheaper than here in Aust and they seem to be pretty good.
Haven't broken any and they seem to stay sharp longer. 
I paid the extra and got them express delivered so only took a week, but it was still cheaper than buying them here. Something like $3 a dozen

Cheers
Rod T

Daniel L Abbink

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Reply with quote  #9 
I just got a sample pack of flying Dutchman blades from Mikes what a difference from the big box store blades.They cut some much better it hard to believe.
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jasonshanks

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Reply with quote  #10 
+1 on the Flying Dutchman blades.  I bought the sample pack too and saw an immediate difference in the cutting on my Porter Cable saw.  At one point I was prepared to give the saw away because I was frustrated every time I used it.  After watching the Scroll Saw 101 video that BadBob shared and spending some time focusing on technique, I'm actually using the Porter Cable more than my older Delta.

Also, I had a similar issue with the plastic insert that came with the Porter Cable...it was about 1/16 below the table height.  I replaced it with a custom insert made from 1/4 hardboard that I sanded down to be flush with the top of the table.  That has helped a lot too.

Another thing that I did was spend an hour sanding and waxing the table on the saw.  The table was actually so rough that it was adding friction that led me to want to push more on the work piece.  After sanding it with varying grits and then applying Johnson's paste wax, I'm finding that I don't feel the need to push hardly at all now.
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