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Djtjak

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Reply with quote  #1 
I am making the 1920's antique  ambulance. Can anyone explain how to make the cutout for the cab? It's 1 1/2" thick and I don't think my scroll saw will cut through that. ( I hope the solution is not to buy a new scroll saw[smile])
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Dennis

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Reply with quote  #2 
Do you have a saber saw ? If so you can use a drill press or hand drill to remove must of it, then a saber saw to finish. Just a thought. If push comes to shove a hand coping saw would work also would take a bit longer.
john lewman

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Reply with quote  #3 
Hi Dennis, 

You ask an important question and there are a couple of solutions that I use. First, I would try a scroll saw blade with a low count of teeth like 7 or 10 per inch. That has worked well for me. Another approach is to make two pieces 3/4" thick or 3 pieces 1/2" thick and glue them together to make the part. This will require some extra sanding but can be a good solution. Some toymakers who have CNC machines will use 1/2" material in triplicate to make matching parts. I prefer using the scroll saw with a low number of teeth. Click on this link for a Rockler blade that has 7 teeth per inch and is extra heavy duty for thick wood. If the link is broken you can go to their website and type in the item number to order it online.

https://www.rockler.com/thick-scroll-blade?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwof3cBRD9ARIsAP8x70OqSEzd4jPzTeMmQVw_WnCRhERih38l6jBeU0klzNWyi_pzkrDZsYwaAjiUEALw_wcB

It is Rockler item 223951 Thick Scroll Saw Blade. Below is a photo of it in action.
23951 rockler 7 tooth blade.jpg


Djtjak

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My saber saw requires pinned blades which Rockler does not carry so that option doesn't work for me. I do have a saber saw, however in the past when I have used it I have not been able to cut a fine line. I'm thinking I might make the block a little higher than the plan calls for and cut off the top, cut out the cab with my band saw and glue the top back on.
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BadBob

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Reply with quote  #5 
Take a piece of 2x4 and give it a try. If it cuts it, you might want to try cutting a 2x4 for practice. I have never seen a scrollsaw that would not cut a 1-1/2 inch board. Even my old made in Taiwan AMT that used pin end blades would cut 1-1/2 inch stock. I cut 3D chess pieces from oak with it.  Be sure to keep your fingers out from under the bar.

Usually its the operator or poor quality blades that are the problem. The thicker the wood gets, the more patience and skill it takes to make to cut. When I first started cutting the thicker wood, the saw beat me up. Bruised fingers and a lot of broken blades later I got the hang of it.

Look around some; there are upgrades for some scrollsaws that convert them to pinless blades. You want pinless blades. It will open up a whole new world of scroll sawing for you. All the better blades are pinless.

There is a way to do it using what you have. You need to study the problem for a while. I don't recommend this but, I once made toy parts using a 40 grit belt sander to shape them. I did it outdoors, and it still made a huge mess but, it worked great.




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Loggerlaws

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Reply with quote  #6 
Maybe you can drill some small holes and cut out with a flat multi-saw blade and then glue some sand paper to a flat blade to smooth the cuts off. I am not sure of the shape of the part you are trying to cut.

Cheers
Raymond
Djtjak

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Djtjak
My saber saw requires pinned blades which Rockler does not carry so that option doesn't work for me. I do have a saber saw, however in the past when I have used it I have not been able to cut a fine line. I'm thinking I might make the block a little higher than the plan calls for and cut off the top, cut out the cab with my band saw and glue the top back on.


I did what I suggested above and it worked out fine[smile]

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