John the first pictures are still downsized via infranView. I am used to do that because I sometimes put some of my other hobby on Modelbouwforum.nl, where it is obligated to
I sometimes cut out the drawing (plan), often the bigger parts, and take the contours onto the piece of wood. Mostly, I put the measurements form the plan onto the wood. Since I know that the scale is 1:1 (inches) I print those correct now so I have no longer problems with inches and metric.
My scrollsaw is not that accurate so I stay well within the lines.
I bought myself an oscilating sander to overcome a lot of sanding in odd corners, which makes it a bit easier.
I put the two half together and then sanded the openings, (except for the door), so the windows are the same. Forgot to make a picture of it. I am happy with the results.
and than the glueing started ...
I hope the grain(?) of those sidepanels, being both in the same direction, will not go wrong, meaning that the Winnebago is going to become deformed.
I used the pieces of wood of the wheelhouses (is that the word, thanks to Google translate?) for the axle-connextion pieces. Clamped them together, and with help of my discssander, gave them a better shape.
Measuring ...... divided by 2 ........ ans start drilling the hole. I use such a drill, I can use one of my centredrills (from the metal) but those are doing great also. Nice round holes but stangely, the last one is still (as it seems) a little offset. MY dirll is 90% and the plateau is absolutely horizontal. So how this can occur, I don't know.
IIf somebody knows .... pse explain. I think in this case it is not that bad because the holes are all correct located (distance) regarding the floor of the Winnebago, so the wheels must be all correct. The only thing is the placing and gluing onto the floor. I have to lign them up with the wheelhouses.
If someone has a usefull tip, feel ree to share pse.
After that, I started with the frontpieces. I have an Proxxon tablesaw and for the big(ger) pieces I remove the guidefence
For angles, I mostly eyeball those and then put the blade into the correct position. I eyeball that also, because the degree-indicator says different then the discribed angles on the drawing. I therfore have to check via the backside of the to be cut piece. The 'eybrows' needed an angle of 7 degrees, which I didn't know how to make with my proxxon so I sanded those on my sander. Satisfied with the result. Glueing the pieces in place and let them dry. I use pattex white woodglue, seen on the little bottle. I fill that bottle from a bigger one (to be seen at earlier pictures ) because the little one is more handy.
To be continued .......