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moise

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Reply with quote  #1 
I enjoyed building these plans. These were designed by PlayTimeToyPlans by Ericson San Diego. They were well done and were a lot of fun doing my first decal plan sets. I also will be posting the My NUMBERS Set,My Little Dressup Doll set, Farm Friends set,and My Little Clock. Hope you enjoy.

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john lewman

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Reply with quote  #2 
Thank Moise for the work on the decoupage prototypes. They came out just super and we are all very pleased. We have the plan sets ready for publication as soon as Cynthia has the new PlayTimeToyPlans.com website ready to launch. We hope she is ready to do that around the first of December this year.
rdredge

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Reply with quote  #3 
Looks great!!  How did you do the cut outs?  I don't see any place where a hole was drilled to put blade through.  Thanks
moise

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Reply with quote  #4 
I attach the decal to the wood first and cut the decal and wood at the same time. I use 110 lb card stock for decal which makes cutting the decal with a scrollsaw easy.
rdredge

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Reply with quote  #5 
My worry is will the decals peel off?
Ken Martin

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Reply with quote  #6 
Rdredge

Paper is wood, and the mixture of the glue and water bonds wood to wood so well, I think it will hold up as well as paint. 
Biggest challenge is to not damage the edges while sanding by lifting the edge of the paper.
Time will tell whether or not the face of the toy will hold up, but I think it will.

Moise did a really good job on this project, and thanks again for sharing.

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moise

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Reply with quote  #7 
Decals coming off is always a worry. Over the years of applying decals I have always found that I created the problem by not making sure that I had removed all the dust before applying the decal. I wash lightly with alcohol before I apply the decal and then if possible I put pressure on the piece withe some weight on it. I know john recommends glue that has been thinned which works well but I found that it was necessary to especially careful not getting glue on the decal while trying to handle the decal which is why I use the Stickermaker creation station permanent cartridge . It makes a great sticker with no mess. Time will tell if my application is the best. With that being said I also worry about the decal being able to take ware and tear from being used. Time will tell that also. Kids will put it to the test. Putting a clear coat is always a worry depends upon the quality of the ink and paper you are using. I am experimenting with different coverings to protect the decal not decided what I feel is best so far. if any one can add additional information on applying decals and what clear coats you are useing please share. Kids love to pick at the decals but has not been a problem yet.
Ken Martin

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Reply with quote  #8 
Moise, like you, I have been using the decal as the template whenever possible.  I use wood glue and when the piece is completely dry I spray two coats on Krylon Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze on before I start cutting.  (read the directions because Krylon recommends that the 2nd and 3rd coat goes on 2 to 3 minutes apart for a full wet coat (different than we usually do. They also say to wait 24 hours before handling the piece, but because I live in CA I can spray in the AM and cut in the PM.)

The biggest mistake on the 1st decal sticker I did was sanding to hard.  I sanded in both directions, and found the up ward motion toward the decal made it raise on the edge.  For me, I only sand in the downward motion away from the decal and off the edge.

If I want to paint the edges, I will wait the 24 hours Krylon recommends THEN covering the dried piece with yellow painters tape before cutting it out.  Then after cutting I have the mask in place, and can spray or hand paint the edges.  Works for me.

And yes Moise they are a lot of fun to make, and I believe they will hold up to play as well as most paints we use.  Rough play might bang them up, but no more than any other toy.



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ctowne

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Reply with quote  #9 
Good tips Ken and Moise.  Glad there are those on the "bleeding" edge of learning so it is not quite such a curve for the rest of us. 
moise

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Reply with quote  #10 
I'm very familiar with your process and it certiantly will work as you say. We all have our favorite ways of doing things. I feel I cut out a lot of steps and time with out useing glue. I just don't like useing glue on decals,but with that said that is why the automotive industries makes different cars. Some like Chevys and some like fords, we just have to pick the one that works best for us. Thanks for your input. I enjoy looking at your face page. Keep up the good work.
levy.jr02

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Reply with quote  #11 
Ours were very beautiful and well finished. The site with the designs of these toys is now available?
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Levy Junnior

BadBob

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Reply with quote  #12 
I have tried using polyurethane to glue the decals on. I put on a heavy coat applied the decal and coated the top of the decal with polyurethane after it fully cured the decal fell off.  That was a big surprise. I'm thinking that the MDF I was using just absorbed all the polyurethane.

I also have a problem with the 20 bond paper I have been using. I wrinkles easy when I apply glue and the glue tends to bleed through just a little. I've ordered some heavy better quality paper and will give that a try with glue.

Hammermill Color Copy Digital Cover, 60 lbs and 32lbs Bright 100.

I've been using Tight Bond wood glue because that is what I had on hand. The yellow color slightly changes the colors so I have pruchased some Elmer's white glue to try.

I sure have learned a lot about paper messing with this.

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BadBob

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Reply with quote  #13 
60lb paper and Elmer's white glue works. The colors are good. No bleed through and no discoloration from the glue. I had a small issue with the decal coming loose in places. I think I need to prime the surface really good with the glue/water mix.

I'm still planning to try some 3M 77 spray adhesive. I tried this on som patterns and I have to soak the patern with mineral spirits to get it loose. It should work great for decals.

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Ken Martin

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Reply with quote  #14 
Hi BadBob

I have tried a number of things.

I am using mostly MDF.
I have found that the 40 bond bright white paper works great for me.  It is thick enough to not let moisture show through, and requires less sanding than the 60 bond, or the heavy photo papers.
Glue and water: Still had to go heavy on the glue.  Also, I am not good at controlling the squeeze out.
Glue stick:  Surprising it worked on a piece stair rail I am planning to used for a tanker. I need to look at it more to see to see how it holds.
I am now using the 3M General Purpose 45.  the other 3M spray adhesives spray out to think and in globs.
DSC07621_mini.JPG 

I might do things a little differently than the plans call for, but description below works for me.
1. using MDF is very dusty after sanding, so I like to wipe it off lightly with alcohol.
2. I spray the decal face with Krylon Clear Glaze.  This dries so fast, and will help protect the face of the decal when applying it to the wood.
3. I make a permanent bond with the 3M General Purpose 45 by spraying both the wood and the decal paper.
4. Cut your decal bigger than you need it to be for the toy.  That way you have the outside edge to hold and don't get to close to the decal face you want on the toy.
5. I use the decal itself as the cutting template when ever possible.
6. when I apply the decal on the front side of the toy, I use yellow painters tape over the decal, before I do the back side.  REMEMBER we have sprayed the decal with Clear Glaze so the tape will not bond to the plain paper, and the yellow painters tape is so light you can see right through it when ready to cut the part out.
7.  Also the yellow painters tape now acts like a mask if I want to paint the edges.
I don't like to see the white of the paper around my toy, so painting might become a bigger thing with me and these decals.  Still experimenting.

8.  MOST IMPORTANT:  When sanding the edges ALWAYS sand in one direction, down from the face of the decal to the edge.  If you sand both ways you will lift the decal.
9.  When finished sanding, clean up all the dust, I then spray again with the clear glaze, (if I am going paint edges)
10.  Final step is to protect with the Krylon's Clear Glaze or Cynthia's Beeswax and mineral oil.

This sounds like a big deal and a lot of steps, but remember when spraying the MDF, and the paper decal face it drys really fast.  When finished with the final coat for protection and looks, I like to leave set overnight.

I am sure you know most of this, but if something here helps, that would be a good thing.

Any questions feel free to ask here on the forum, or my e-mail is kenmartin4141@gmail.com.

Happy Decal Toy Making


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BadBob

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Reply with quote  #15 
Great post Ken lots of good info there.

Thank you.

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