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Posts: 71
Reply with quote  #1 
As convenient as it is to use the setting on your rip fence on your saw it is WRONG !!!

It can be off better than an 3/16 of an inch off depending on the manufacturer.That measurement looks extreme but it's not if your using the blade the saw came with.

I was using a 40 t blade and getting a lot of rip out so i went with a 60 t blade still using the rip fence guide..After cutting out all the parts I was waaayyyyy off..

Measure the distance between the ripfence and the "TIP" of the blade (where the carbide is) because the kerf ? (thickness of the blade) vs. the carbide tips vary ALOT...

This is just my opinion based on experience with RYOBI tools..

Hope this helps [tongue]

Black Wolf

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Posts: 1,179
Reply with quote  #2 
Let us do a couple of set up tests first.
Grab a piece of scrap plywood, wider than 4" and maybe 10" long. Make sure one edge is straight and flat, a factory edge is preferred
Raise the blade so that you can cut a 1/8 to 1/4" slot into the plywood depending on the thickness of the plywood you selected for the test.
Remember, when cutting wood on the table saw the good side is up and when using a hand circular saw the good side is down.

Set your rip fence to cut a groove at 3-3/4" as you would normally do.
Now make your groove cut and upon completing the cut do not touch any of the setup except for removing the wood for measuring.
Measure the distance of the inside groove edge to the factory edge at the leading edge, middle and exit edge as it passes thru the blade.
Let us say there is a difference between the measurement taken at the leading edge and exit edge.
Is it the fault of the saw blade, not sure at this point.

First we must check if it is the rip fence causing the problem.
Measure the distance from the rip fence to the left side mitre gauge groove. That is the groove to the left of the saw blade. Take this measurement about 2 to 3" from the end of the table saw surface edge facing you and record your reading.
We do it this way because the table saw surface and grooves are a precision machined component.
Now, take a measurement at the back of the table saw, again from the rip fence to the same left side groove again about 1 to 2" from the back edge of the table saw surface.
If the measurements are equal then the rip fence is calibrated/setup up properly.
If the measurement are not equal then you need to calibrate/setup you rip fence and most rip fences have some bolts to loosen allowing you to reposition the rip fence and retighten.
This is called Aligning Rip Fence.
A super quick way of doing the same thing is move the rip fence until it is along the one of the sides of the mitre gauge groove.
It should be parallel to the groove for it's entire length ... if it is not, you must align your rip fence.

Similarly you can check your blade to the same left side machined groove in the table saw surface.
This procedure is called Heeling Adjustment or Parallelism of Saw Blade to Mitre Gauge Groove.
From the above we know that the rip fence must be parallel to the saw blade.
What we want to check now is, is the saw blade parallel to the mitre gauge also.
If it is not, the blade will bind at one end of the cut, known as Heeling.

Here is how we check for Heeling.
Raise the blade all the way up and raise the blade guard.
Select one tooth and mark it, pick a tooth that is bent to the left and position it to the front edge of the table saw surface, facing you.
(My table saw blades are called laser triple cut, meaning one tooth is bent left, the next tooth is straight and flat to remove the centre material and the third tooth is bent towards the right).

Take your carpenters adjustable combination square and place the head of the square in the left side mitre gauge groove. Your saw blade will be on the right.
Adjust the blade of the square so that it just touches the tip of the marked tooth and lock that position.

Now move the square to the rear and rotate the blade so that the same marked tooth touches the blade of the square again.

If it touches the square the same amount at the front and rear, the saw blade is parallel to the mitre gauge groove. No problems with blade at this point.
If is not you need to do a Heeling adjustment/calibration.

I am not familiar with you saw, but on my saw I have 4 bolts that allow me to loosen the motor/blade assembly and correct for this variance.
Again, all measurements for alignment and parallelism are taken from the left mitre gauge groove.

Check with you owners manual if you have this capability, or see if you can download the manual from the manufacturer.

Finally, let us check if the saw blade is warped.
Sometimes ripping long lengths of thick MFD, heats up the blade so much that you actually warp the blade.
Once cooled down it usually goes back to normal.
What you did not tell me in your original post is over what length of wood did you experience the 3/16 variance.
To check if you have a warped blade, select several teeth of the saw blade as explained above for Parallelism of Saw Blade to Mitre Gauge Groove.

That's all I can think of right now ... let me know what your discover.


Posts: 71
Reply with quote  #3 
Damn you just blew my mind--I'm going to print this out so I can do every step in the morning when the wife isn't here cuz my lil toybox room is just off the living room..WOW
Black Wolf
Ken Martin

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Posts: 988
Reply with quote  #4 
Udie's answer above is so typical of how he responds to things.  He is the best if you need to know anything.  I think the man is a walking encyclopedia of woodworking tips and tricks.

I know because I have warn him out with my questions over and over again.
I now have a Udie File full of things he has tried to get into my thick head.

Thanks Udie for doing what you do.
John and Cynthia made a great choice when the asked you to be the Forum Administrator.

Kenneth W Martin
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