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Posts: 281
Reply with quote  #1 
I bought myself a rattle can of "Chrome" paint a while ago to do hubcaps and exhaust pipes on some Ford Hot-Rods, and it seemed to do the job nicely.
 The upside was that the look was way more chrome-like than silver paint.
 The downside was that the stuff cost three time what a normal colour rattle can costs.

Working on the Peterbilt Road Construction set  for my grandson, I thought I should amortise the expense a bit more and put the chrome spray to use and do the hubcaps and grille/bumper bar on the trucks, to mimic some of the coloured images in the plan sets.
 Again, the chrome finish came up reasonably well, until I discovered another downside.

 The darn stuff rubs off on your fingers!!  Hardly acceptable for a kids toy.
Oh well, I thought, apply a coat of clear acrylic to seal it all in. Mistake #2!
 The lovely shiny chrome look disappears to become a metallic grey look. ( I could have got that look for 1/5th the combined cost.  Grrrr.
I did go back and brush a bit more chrome paint into the truck headlights to restore that shiny gleam, low risk of rubbing off from down a drill hole.

So just a heads-up for anyone else tempted to try this stuff, there are pitfalls.
It costs a bomb, and results are sub-optimal.
 Pics follow.
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Posts: 1,626
Reply with quote  #2 
The finish looks a lot like aluminum paint I used at work many years ago.

A couple of things you might try.

Seal the wood with shellac and sand smooth before painting. It might take more than one coat to seal it well. I have had wood that caused odd things to happen to the finish. For example, I made some cars form bits of wood I had lying around that polyurethane would not cure unless I baked them in the oven.

Try using Future floor finish as a topcoat. It has many different names, but a google search should find it for you. Future floor finish is nothing more than a clear gloss acrylic.  I'm thinking that this might seal the chrome paint without changing the color. Modelers use it to coat plastic windshields and canopies. It is very clear and glossy.

Advanced techniques are the basics perfectly applied.
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Posts: 18
Reply with quote  #3 
I fell for that type of paint however ! ! I am currently using Plastikote and it does not smear, is in their child friendly range and dries quite hard - Screenshot 2020-02-21 at 17.05.30.png 

see photo
Cheers Griff


Posts: 281
Reply with quote  #4 
Thanks Robert.  I did seal the wood first with two (sanded) coats of Zinser BIN before spraying the metallic finish.  The clear acrylic overcoat was the same brand and especially formulated with safe solvents so it could not be misused by kids spraying it into a bag and "chroming". Perhaps that was the problem..... it was designed to resist chroming. [frown]

The Chrome paint obviously has microscopic metal flakes in it that float to the surface and lay flat for a reflective layer. The solvents in the clear-coat probably lifts these loosely-bonded particles and disperses them within the clear coat.  You get a mica-metallic look to the paint but the flat reflective surface has been messed up.

I looked up Future floor polish but it is discontinued here. However, perhaps a brush-on clear acrylic may be better with less solvent content.  As you say, the world of plastic modellers will most likely have a solution ( no pun intended ) that works.

Posts: 281
Reply with quote  #5 
Thanks for the info Griff.
  I have had a quick search for this product and it seems I will most likely have to import it  via an on-line store.  Costs more than the two can "solution" I just tried ( Naturally!)
Nonetheless, hobby shops that specialise in plastic models may well carry it or an equivalent.
I will keep looking.

Thank you both for your positive suggestions.
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