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rdredge

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Reply with quote  #1 
HELP!! about to give up. I have tried everything suggested to make clean holes with no tearout on the back especially, front is usually not too bad.  I have taped both sides, tried brad bits, a drill press, and nothing works.  What am I doing wrong?  I am so frustrated I am about to give up on the toys.  Thanks for your help rdredge.
Udie

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Reply with quote  #2 
rdredge - Don't give up my friend let's see if we can help you. You said you have even taped the back. Are you drilling into a backer board or into the hole in the drill press. A backer board will help eliminated tear out.
   I did a WTN (Wood Toy News) article showing how I drill using a brad bit or Forstner bit to make windows in the play pals and Freaky Ford Coupe. Here's are two (2) links to the videos that demonstrate how I do it: "Udie Builds the Freaky Ford Coupe" and "Make Router Templates for Building Multiple Play Pals Wood Toy Cars".
One video demonstrates how I like to drill a very small pilot hole allowing me to flip the wood over and continue my hole from the other side with repeatable results.
   I think after you see the video and give it a try you will be very happy with the results.
Let us know how you make out.
rdredge

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Reply with quote  #3 
thanks,  I did use a backer board with the drill press, will try with small pilot hole and go from both sides.  I am using pine, is that a poor choice for the little cars?  thanks rdredge
Udie

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Reply with quote  #4 
redredg - Funny, even with a backer board you're getting poor results. Can you post some photos?
Pine is a great wood to use, we all use it with excellent results. Now you are making me suspect if the drill bit is sharp and the speed you drill thru the wood, not the drill speed but the speed and force you are exerting during drilling.
rdredge

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Reply with quote  #5 
I drilled a small pilot hole and went in from both sides, worked great, thanks! Drill still doesn't seem to go through very easy though.
Douglas

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Reply with quote  #6 
You need a new SHARP drill bit my friend ,and don't force the drill bit through , let the drill do the work and give it time to cut , only a slight downward pressure is required .  Use a backer board too . Udies suggestion of drilling through both sides is almost guaranteed to give you a clean hole .   Regards Douglas
Old Texan

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Reply with quote  #7 
I know it is some 3 months since you posted about your difficulties in drilling axle holes with a drill press you got some good solutions that may have worked for you,
I have a similar problem using brad point bits and sharpen then and all else some times i still get tear out but most often i got crooked holes, the spline on the drill press when i get to a 2 inch depth moves and the holes get crooked and sometimes tear out  i placed shims between the fence and work piece to get the angle out and that also solved the tear out problem.  my drill press is new made overseas and cheap it is fixing to get replaced with a good unit which should solve most of my problems the old one will probably find use on sanding drums just have to set it up for squared sanding.
rdredge

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Reply with quote  #8 
After drilling a million practice holes and almost giving up, I have found that making a pilot hole with the drill press, then cutting from both sides on the drill press gives a very good clean hole.  I have enlisted my husband to do this and he is really good at this!!  He now drills all the axle holes for me.  It is rather time consuming, especially on pieces that have 2 or 3 different size holes on it, but is worth the time for great holes.  I still do the eyes on animals with a hand drill and use the same method, works great!
Ken Martin

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Reply with quote  #9 
rdredge
Best idea I have heard yet.  Have someone else do it.  Just kidding.
The pilot holes sounds like a great idea, I will have to try that.
Thanks for sharing your idea.

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Muskokamike

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Posts: 153
Reply with quote  #10 
I just want to chime in here, a) yes, a sharp drill is essential....get a drill doctor and make em right yourself...it will pay for itself in 3 months....b) light pressure.....unless I'm using a spade bit in framing, I barely let the weight of the cordless drill rest on the bit c) smaller pilot holes, ayup.....d) Pine is a very coarse wood....so slow speed (rotational) and light pressure is essential.

You said you used a backer board....did it already have a number of holes in it? if it does, move to a clean area because if the bit is going into a pre-existing hole, it's kind of useless.....oh, and it has to be TIGHT TIGHT TIGHT to the backer board...if there's a gap? you'll get tear out.....if you're painting the final item and do get tear out? Ahem, that's what wood filler is for.....

Frankly though, it does sound like you're using a dull bit and pressing too hard.....
Muskokamike

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Reply with quote  #11 
Just wanted to mention that yesterday, I had to drill a bunch of 1/4" holes so I got to thinking about this post so I rammed one through...I mean chips were FLYING and the drill press was complaining....and got a tiny amount of tearout....I mean a LITTLE....so yeah, it is probably your bit...

BUT with that being said, if the wood is too dry, that will do it too....I seem to recall the optimum moisture content for solid wood being around 25 to 30%......
Muskokamike

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Reply with quote  #12 
Just an update on this: I am making a ton of play pals out of left over Baltic birch ply....the birch is extremely hard, extremely thin, and extremely fragile. I stepped up drills from 7/32 in 64th increments and since the axle holes are so close to the edge, no matter what I did I got tear out too...I even used a step drill that cuts sideways and it still tore out.....

Needless to say, you're not alone! :-)
Muskokamike

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Reply with quote  #13 
Just an update....and they say, great discoveries are often the cause of accidents....I was drilling some more Baltic birch the other day and had my cordless drill in reverse...started drilling the hole before I realized this and whoot, a perfectly round hole with ZERO tear out. I only went in maybe 1/8" and then flipped the piece over and did the same on the other side...again, ZERO tear out...then switched the drill to clockwise and drilled out the hole...again, with ZERO tear out.

I've since tried this on wheel blanks, pine, poplar, and it works perfect every time.....

Now if you're using a drill press you don't have a reverse option but for cordless drilling? It's the cat's pajamas!!!
ctowne

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Reply with quote  #14 
Good one - are you using a brad point bit
Muskokamike

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Reply with quote  #15 
no, just a twist drill....but I could see a brad point working even better since you'd be dragging the teeth across the grain as opposed to forcing them into to.....

Brad points are good for accuracy but I've yet to figure out how to sharpen them on my drill doctor....(btw, those things are worth their weight in gold)
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