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Posts: 274
Reply with quote  #1 
Just finished the Easy Basics truck. It's made from offcuts of pine I had on hand. Tray is MDF. I used a sample pot of ordinary paint for the green and the grey was just ordinary craft paint with a bit of black added to make it darker. I didn't use a primer so it took a couple of extra coats. 2 coats of satin varnish (I didn't have any gloss on hand). Sanded between coats. Finished with beeswax/coconut oil.

This is the first time I've cut anything this thick on the scrollsaw. I started by using a Olsen pinned 12tpi skip reverse but I found that it kept on binding, even though I was going really slow. I switched to a pinless #9 PGT and got much better results (I would have used a #12 if I had one on hand) I'm not very good at cutting to the line. I tend to wander a bit. I'm a bit wary of some of the turns because the pinless blades tend to pop out of their holder rather easily.

I found that the underside was slightly misaligned with the topside but I was able to correct it using a drum sander mounted in the drill press. I'll have to check that the table is definately square to the blade next time (I hope that is the problem, otherwise I have no idea why it's happening. It may also be why the bigger blade kept binding) I'm also thinking that the flatbed tray looks slightly too wide. I think I'll adjust it for the next one. Working on the tractor now.

2016-05-06 13.30.10.jpg

john lewman

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Posts: 2,874
Reply with quote  #2 
Rosiejane, this is a perfectly presented post and what we all like to see on the forum. Your clear and concise explanation of the wood toy truck project is fun to read. And what is more important, we all learned something useful about toymaking!

The crowning touch is a clear and artistic photo of the wood toy truck that you created. Thanks for taking the time to make this post. All of us on the forum deeply appreciate any posts about toymaking. This one is of the finest. One last comment-your writing is really professional. Are you are journalist?

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Posts: 724
Reply with quote  #3 

The truck looks very good. The paint job looks great from where i'm sitting.

I cut this size lumber on my scroll saw all the time. My table is square to the blade but I have noticed especially is the blade is duller that you will push harder and a lot of times I'll catch myself putting more side tension on the wood.
This will of course make the cut not square, so needless to say it's quality time spent on the sander LOL

Ed - Making sawdust in the shop [wave]

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Posts: 1,054
Reply with quote  #4 
RosieJane - Awesome truck.  Looks great.  I too have the problem of the misaligned, it is either me pushing too hard, too fast or the blade needs to be changed.  I am very thankful for sanders to fix those issues.  Very nice truck!!!!  [thumb]
Big Yin

Posts: 53
Reply with quote  #5 
Great looking truck. Paint work looks very good to me.
Excellent description and detail of the project. 
Haven't cut this thickness myself on the scroll saw but will be certain to take on your information
about blades when I do. Painting M.D.F information also taken on board.
As John says we are always learning something 
Thanks for a first class posting



Posts: 274
Reply with quote  #6 
Thank you all for your encouraging comments. The photo is very forgiving. I am my own harshest critic.

John - thanks for another great plan. Your comment made me smile. I'm a stay-at-home mum with absolutely no background whatsoever in journalism.

Ed and Cindy - thanks, you've given me a couple of things to think about when the cut is not square. I think one of the blades must have been dull because I seemed to be pushing quite hard without getting anywhere. How long should I expect the blades to last when cutting 35mm (1 3/8") pine? Sounds like I'd better stock up on some little packs of 6 aren't going to last long! The local suppliers don't seem to have the bulk packs so I may have to go online. Shipping to Australia is expensive but it may be better than paying more than AUD $1 per blade


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Posts: 856
Reply with quote  #7 
If your pushing hard and not getting anywhere as you state check that your blade isn't in upside down- It happens at times purely by mistake.
Rod T

Posts: 649
Reply with quote  #8 
Hi Rosie

Nice truck and very nice paint job.
You can get Olson blades in Australia from Carrols woodworking supplies.

The blade should last a while when cutting pine. I just cut some teething toys today, out of American rock maple. 1 blade per toy.
That stuff is hard.

Rod T


Posts: 25
Reply with quote  #9 
Hi, the truck looks great. The paintwork looks fine to me.
Thanks for the tips on the scroll saw blades. I am not great user of scroll saws, because I keep breaking my blades. I only use scroll saw to make the master patterns, then I just simply use my routers to machine the toys.
Thank you for very informative post

Posts: 274
Reply with quote  #10 
Thanks Rod T. I've been getting mine from Carbatec and Timbecon.

Posts: 126
Reply with quote  #11 
I dont know if I should be plugging these but steve good and gwinnett wwoodworker association have some good helpfull videos on youtube. I've learnt a lot watching them.

If this is not allowed on here let me knoww and I will delete it.

Nothing beats sanding in the sun

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Posts: 1,626
Reply with quote  #12 

I cut lots of wood 1/5 inch thick. I use Flying Dutchman #5 and #9 skip tooth. The skip tooth helps with getting the saw dust out of the kerf. I cut a lot of 2x material mostly 2x4.

Pine varies greatly in hardness. Where I live in Florida I get most of my wood from the big box stores Home Depot and Lowe's. It varies from what they call "white wood" to southern yellow pine. The white wood can be so soft that even a new blade will tear the wood rather than cut it. I can feel the saw jerk when this is happening. The yellow pine has very hard growth rings and you have to learn to feel it and adjust your speed accordingly.

It is important to let the saw do the cutting. What you want to do is apply just enough pressure to keep the blade in constant contact with the wood but not enough pressure to cause the blade to bow. This takes very light pressure. The best way I have found to see if you are using to much pressure is to put some blue tape on booth sides of the blade so you have zero clearance. Cut a piece and look at the tape there should be a small hole. If you are pushing to the side it will be bigger on that side. If you push to hard it will be larger toward the back.

How long will the blades last? This depends on to many factors to really have a hard fast rule. If you find it more difficult to stay on the line especially when cutting a sharp turn the blade may be dull. You might be able to cut two truck bodies with a good blade.

Since windows are so difficult to sand I like to cut them with a new blade so I get a smoother cut.

I hope this makes sense. I'm typing with my grandson climbing all over me.

Advanced techniques are the basics perfectly applied.


Posts: 274
Reply with quote  #13 
Thanks BadBob. Some great advice there. I'll give the tape idea a go.

I noticed a couple of days after finishing the truck that the tray has a slight sideways tilt! Oops. Since this one won't be sold and is just my trial one it doesn't matter but I'm going to have to check for square more often. I corrected the initial problem with the drum sander but had to sand a bit by hand to correct a bit a bit of a ridge at the back of the truck and didn't even think to check for square after that. Lesson learned!


Posts: 61
Reply with quote  #14 
Hi Rosiejane,

Very nice looking truck that you have made and great paint work.

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