Registered: 1518009908 Posts: 7
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Apologies if these topics have been covered before but I could not find the specific answers .
1. As a safe bet for finishes I generally go for Danish Oil. The problem is that the more complex models are difficult to finish with brushes so I have been looking at spray painting but I know very little about this . Does anyone have any thoughts on the best device ? Spray guns seem to be too big and airbrushes too small.
2. Safe finishes for toys for children : The only thing internet searches have in common is that there are so many contradictions . Is Danish oil safe ? Should I look at mineral oil ? Etc .
3. Model plans . Most of the best plans are inevitably in inches but I have been using centimetres all my life and have trouble getting the conversions right . The actual conversions are simple maths but the difficulty is applying these for every part and trying to visualise what the finished model will look like. Does anyone have any thoughts on this .
Many thanks in advance ,
Registered: 1516657615 Posts: 49
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Tony T. maybe they could offer when buying a print buy it in centimeters or inches. We all would be lost if it all went to centimeters LOL Mineral Oil is pretty standard and readily available here in the US. So if it is not available there most oils will work with the right mix of beeswax. I personally found reading these prints and trying to decipher some of these numbers on the prints. Wish it was Thick=Width=Depth=Height= (T X W X D X H) Example: 5/16"T X14"W X 4"D X6"T (just my opinion) I know the prints also have the thickness added to the print which is a little confusing as well to me because I am not used to it maybe. I normally buy a print and spend a hour going through it myself and changing it to speed my process up.
__________________ We make one of a kind wood models and a lot of kids toys.. I started building a few things off this site lately when I have some free time to widen the variety for my customers. awcwoods.com
Registered: 1431169272 Posts: 1,309
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I did some extensive research on nontoxic finishes when I decided I was going to sell toys. I can to the conclusion that what nontoxic means is that if you eat it you will not need a trip to the emergency room. All of the modern finishes sold in the US are nontoxic when cured. Dry to the touch is not cured. Some oil based finishes can take up to 30 days to cure. Some oil based finishes never cure.
If you want to try airbrushes the Badger Anthem is the one you want. I tried a lot of air brushes before I found these. They can spray a fine line or be use for spraying large areas. They are as close to a perfect fit as you will find for toymaking. It nearly perfect. Spraying with any method is expensive. You need hoses, compressors, regulators, extra jars, paint strainers and many other odds and ends. Plus if you want to spray indoors you really need a spray booth. Brush painting can be done indoors with only proper ventalation and some good brushes. __________________ Advanced techniques are the basics perfectly applied. Odin's Toy Factory Etsy Store Facebook Pinterest Google+ Blogg er Forum Photo Album LinkedIn YouTube Google Photos Toys Album
Registered: 1513302641 Posts: 100
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I was watching the Vikings on the History channel Bob and for some reason thought about you making toys..Hmmm.. Anyway, thanks for the info for sure.
__________________ Michael Lusk Springfield, Tn. Disabled Vet Woodworking Hobbyist
Registered: 1518009908 Posts: 7
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Many thanks Mike and Bob for the very useful info. TonyT