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BadBob

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Reply with quote  #1 
Another resized Itty Bitty car. Resized to fit 3/4-inch wheels. 20200105-111605 012 Handmade Wooden Car Itty-Bitty Ferarri Play Pal Si.jpg

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Peter V

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Reply with quote  #2 
BadBob,

very nice,  and beautiful build.

What kind of wood did u use?

Did you select it specially, due to the nice structure


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BadBob

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Reply with quote  #3 
It's made from pine I got from Home Depot cull lumber.
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john lewman

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Reply with quote  #4 
I really like this little jewel of a wood toy car! 

Grandpa Bear

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Reply with quote  #5 
Love your photos Bob.

This just goes to show that there is no such thing as waste wood, just something not made yet.

best wishes Nick
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Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grandpa Bear
Love your photos Bob.

This just goes to show that there is no such thing as waste wood, just something not made yet.

best wishes Nick


Thanks, In my shop there is no such thing as scrap wood. It all gets used for something. Even the saw dust gets used in the garden.

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LeftFinger

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Reply with quote  #7 
How do you scribe the accent line on the side panel?
BadBob

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Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeftFinger
How do you scribe the accent line on the side panel?


Cut it in half. Round the edges of the cut just a bit with some sandpaper and glue it back together.


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Reply with quote  #9 
wow
JTalbot

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Reply with quote  #10 
Nice!
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daraldf

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Reply with quote  #11 
I love these!. Cull lumber is the best. 99% of my toys are made from it. How do you make the rounded axel ends? Do you paint them before fastening to the wheels?

Darald 
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Reply with quote  #12 
Quote:
Originally Posted by daraldf
I love these!. Cull lumber is the best. 99% of my toys are made from it. How do you make the rounded axel ends? Do you paint them before fastening to the wheels?

Darald 


My axel drying rack. These are not dipped they are brush painted. Each color pair  fits the truck they are aligned with.

2019-02-09 20.29.27.jpg 


I paint the axles before mounting the wheels. I painted them with a brush for a long time. Brushing almost always needed at least to coats. Metallic paints were the worst. When applying the first coat of metallic paint, the color would soak in rapidly, leaving the metallics on the surface. Nowadays, I dip the ends of the axels in a couple of drops of paint. I touch the end of the axel to the paint and holds it there for a couple of seconds. Holding the axel in the paint for a short time lets the end grain soak up as much paint as it can. So far, this has been very successful and never requires a second coat of paint. You need to dip the axel just enough to cover the entire end with a tiny bit of overlap. It the wheels fit snug, this extra paint will get scraped off by the wheels. I normally let the paint dry overnight. I hand fit each axel to the car body.

Rounding the axel ends is a bit hard to explain. I do it by hand using a sanding block and 80 grit sandpaper. While holding the sanding block in my left hand I grip the dowel in my right hand 90 degrees to the surface of the sanding block and moving it in a circle. The dowel will wobble in your hand as you sand and produce the rounded end. The tighter you grip the dowel the flatter the end will be. I like to rotate the dowel in my grip a quarter turn every few loops. This helps to keep the shape uniform.

In order to get the axels to fit properly, I hand fit each pair of axles. To do this I put a wheel on the dowel followed by two nylon washers, the car body, two more washers, and another wheel. I press everything down tight on a flat surface and mark the axel length. Everything is disassembled and I cut the axel to length using a 20 TPI Japanese pull saw or flush cutting saw. The axel ends are sanded to shape and painted. When the car is assembled I only use one washer per wheel. The second washer was used to add just enough axel length to allow for rounding the ends.

I use Tightbond II to glue the wheels on. It holds tight and gives me enough working time to position the wheels. I put the first wheel on the axel aligning it carefully so it is in perfect alignment. I set this assembly aside until the glue has cured. I learned the hard way not to try to position both wheels at the same time. After the glue has cured I insert the axel in the car body with washers and glue the opposite wheel in place.

When gluing the second wheel in place I insert a plastic spacer between the wheels and the body. I press the wheel on using a vice with leather padded jaws. This presses the wheel on until the axel just protrudes into the leather. The spacer is there to make sure I have enough clearance for the wheels to turn smoothly. If I did everything right, the hubs will protrude just a bit past the wheel and look like a tiny hubcap. Remember baby moon hubcaps.




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Peter V

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Reply with quote  #13 

BadBob,

thanks very much for the extensive tutorial. Very very helpfull.

Second reaction (added at 13.50 CET), after - again - studying the foto's, 

- do you drill the axle holes completely through the body 
   (so not using seperate axle pegs that is 4 per car?)

- does these axles of yours, rotate freely withing the body of the car? You wrote that you glue the wheels onto the axle, so that freely running is indeed the case?

- how do you avoid wobbling (or what is the difference between the axlehole-diameter  and the dowel-diameter?)

- how do you compensate for - when that happens, slightly of centred - axle hole (at one side of the car)?


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Reply with quote  #14 
Thanks for the great tutorial!
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