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Frankg

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Reply with quote  #1 
I'm trying to drill the holes for the head and tail lights, but I must do it on end into a long board. Any tips on how to get a straight 90" hole and not tear up the wood? Especially trying to accurately drill the 3/8" hole into a 1/2" thick board does not leave much leeway. To further the challenge I am trying to do this on pine wood.
Please! I can't afford to purchase a fancy jig to do this, so don't recommend them.[nono]  I've done this before but did it out of shear luck and much frustration.[rolleyes] Is there an easy home made solution??

Scroll Saw Magic Mayberry Police Cruiser

Mayberry-Police-CruiserSm.jpg 

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Frank Galica
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kp91

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Frank,
 The easiest way I could think of would be to make a home-made drill guide.  First, take a hunk of hardwood and drill perfectly spaced and 90 degree holes in your drill press.  Then you can trim it down so it is the same size as your workpiece edge.  Then, mount some wood pieces on both sides of it so that it will align perfectly with your workpiece.  This will give you the proper position every time you use it.
 You can then slip it on the edge of your workpiece and drill your holes.  a Forstner bit will probably give the best cut.  The drill guide pressing down on the end grain should help reduce the tear out.
 If you can't figure out what I am describing, I can try to sketch it out when I have a chance.
Hope this helps


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Frankg

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Reply with quote  #3 
Hi Doug,
   I see your point. The Forstner bit is an good idea to go with that. As I thought about this more, I was wondering if using a plunge router would be a way to work this also. What do you think?
Thanks for sharing your thoughts

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Frank Galica
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kp91

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Reply with quote  #4 
Frank
   The plunge router with a downcut spiral would definitely work, but again, getting it to sit perfectly on the end of a board would require a shop built fixture.
   I just had an epiphany.  you could always drill the holes whith any bit while the stock is still longer than required, then trim the board to the final length.  Any tear out would be cut off.
Hope this helps.

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Frankg

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Reply with quote  #5 
Thanks Doug,
I'm definitely going to give your idea a try!

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Frank Galica
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Udie

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Reply with quote  #6 
Frank (Frankg)
I spent some time looking at your posted problem and think I have a way of helping you overcome it.
KP91(Doug) suggested to make a drill guide, and I agree with him that, that is the way to go. I have had to made numerous drill guides in many configurations.
I have put together and attached a little document (PDF) that demonstrates one type that I think you can work with.
Hope it helps.


 Mayberry Drill Guide.jpg 

Here is the attached document.
pdf Mayberry Police Cruiser Drill Guide.pdf     

Happy Toy Making
Udie


Udie

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Reply with quote  #7 
Oops - I forgot to explain how I drilled the tail lights using the drill guide jig.
Very simple, I clamped the work piece that needed the tail lights drilled against another piece of 3/4" MDF
and clamped them all together and then drilled the hole using the top right hole in the jig.
Tail Hole Drilling.jpg 
That is how easy it is to make and use a one jig for multiple purposes.
Udie


Frankg

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Reply with quote  #8 
Photo 2.jpg   Photo 4.jpg  Photo 5.jpg  Photo 6.jpg  Photo 7.jpg  Photo 8.jpg  Photo 9.jpg  Photo 10.jpg  Photo 11.jpg  Photo 12.jpg  Photo 13.jpg  Photo 14.jpg  Great idea Udie. Here I is the way I did it, although your method is more specific to the application. I also applied Doug's idea here.

 
Attached Files
docx How_to_drill_perfectly_staight_holes_in_board_edge.docx (15.21 KB, 50 views)


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Frank Galica
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Udie

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Reply with quote  #9 
Frank(Frankg)
Excellent solution to the drilling problem, thanks for posting and taking the time to make the PDF. I think the Forum membership will really get a lot from our problem solving methods.
Good to see that when things do not go exactly as planned there is always a simple way to fix it, in your case it was adding some paper towel and in mine it was business cards. I liked that you showed that drilling the hole could be accomplished even after cutting the work piece to shape, that was good.
And, when things really go wrong, no bit deal, just cut off the bad part, add some new wood and you are good to go to start again. Great fix and solution.
kp91

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Reply with quote  #10 
Glad you were able to get results you are satisfied with!
Great job on the write up.

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Doug


Frankg

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Reply with quote  #11 
Thanks Udie and Dough for your help and encouragement!
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Frank Galica
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Doc

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Reply with quote  #12 
Frank. probably a bit late now, but another alternative is to not drill a hole at all. Simply sand your dowel lights at an angle and glue them on. [thumb]
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Doc
garywisbey

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Reply with quote  #13 
thats good info on some of the smaller toy cars i use a brad point drill bit to make the hole with the point the drill bit don't move when making the holes.
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Gary Wisbey
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dannyboyparker

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Reply with quote  #14 
Thanks so much for the discussion and the drilling guide design.  I am just starting to cut the templates for making more than one of each kind of the Toy Car Roundup in the same fashion as demonstrated for the Freaky Fords and noticed that the holes for the front and rear lights were going to be a problem with a curved surface.  I'll have to let you know how my luck works out doing this.  These are my first attempts at building toy cars, so this is perfect timing to figure out this issue.  Thanks again.
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Dan Parker
Udie

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Reply with quote  #15 
dannyboyparker - Looking forward to seeing you post your Toy Car Roundup vehicle set in progress and as completed assemblies. This plan set is perfect for using the router and template technique for repeatable results.
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