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Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #16 
Was referring to when you need to put two or more pieces together to get your width of toy you are making.
Clint Metcalf

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Posts: 13
Reply with quote  #17 
Hi Slimpickens! (great name btw) Ken and Bob are definitely putting you on the right path. I think most builders would likely go the route of glue and clamps over putty but maybe I'm not completely understanding your question. This Sunday we'll release our latest issue of Wood Toy Weekly (you'll receive an email with the link to the issue) and it has a concise, easy to follow tutorial regarding building your own wheels with tools you likely already have. Again the lads are absolutely correct in Ken telling you, a lot of headaches can be relieved by buying already made wheels but I concur with BadBob that suggests that sometimes the store boughts just simply don't look right.
Keep in mind that if you're not having fun, you might not be doing it right and we're here to help.

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Reply with quote  #18 
Originally Posted by Slimpickens
Was referring to when you need to put two or more pieces together to get your width of toy you are making.

I got it now. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

The only time I use putty is if I am going for a smooth, glossy painted surface. I would most likely be using MDF for this.

I don't like putty on wood for two reasons. First, it will show through any transparent finish and looks like putty. Second, putty under paint makes a flat spot that looks much different than the surrounding wood grain.

When gluing up two or more pieces to form a body, I glue the pieces together before I cut them. If I do my job right, both parts will be identical. If I cut them well, only a bit of touch up sanding will be required.

Usually, when I have a part that gets damaged in some way, I will throw it into the scrap bin and use it for kindling. It took me a long time to get to the point where I could throw things away. I have this mindset that makes me want to fix everything.  However, experience has taught me that most of the time, it isn't worth the effort. On a recent build of BadBobs Custom Motors cars, I probably tossed out ten fenders.

Advanced techniques are the basics perfectly applied.
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Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #19 
I'm using glue. But you can still see the seams in between the pieces. How do you cover those.

Posts: 6
Reply with quote  #20 
Hi Slimpickens,

I’m new here too. Are you using enough clamps to clamp the pieces tightly together on the edges?

I have trouble with too much glue sometimes and cleaning it up before it gets hard. Then having to sand it and try to get back to what looks like wood again.

I’ll be watching for more experienced answers to your question too.

cynthia lewman

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Posts: 434
Reply with quote  #21 
Hi bl_smith and Slimpickens,

To fill in any gaps after you glue the parts, make a mix of fine sawdust and woodworkers glue. Then use a flat stick or the end of a slotted screwdriver to push this mixture into the gaps. You can then clean the seam up with a damp rag or if the mixture dries you can use an X-Acto knife to trim any excess. 

To help avoid gaps when gluing we recommend the following:
When gluing parts it's recommended that you apply a thin coat of woodworkers glue to both surfaces to be glued. For small parts, you need only apply the glue to the surface of the smaller part. Then using a 
scrim such as an old credit card or putty knife, scrim off the excess glue so that you have a thin and even coat of glue. Then when positioning the surfaces to be glued, first press them together but move them around slightly as your applying pressure. This will insure a tight bond. If you find some of the glue has seeped out of the edges, clean the excess off with a damp cloth. Small parts don't necessarily need to be clamped but they do need to be dry before gluing more parts. 


Posts: 246
Reply with quote  #22 
G'day Slimpickens,
Whilst all the advice re filling gaps is all well and good, I follow the old adage - " an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure".
To minimise the appearance of seams between glued pieces, ensure that the mating surfaces are flat, and that the edges are sharp and square.
 Test fit the piece before gluing , adjust and repeat until you are happy with the look. THEN apply glue as per Cynthia's post above.

Only apply edge radii  AFTER you have glued bits together. If you do it before, there will ALWAYS be a rounded spot where you wanted flat and square at a seam.

Sometimes it is difficult to match two cut profiles, even if the glued surfaces mate perfectly.
I like to make one piece the right size and the other a little oversize, glue them together and then use a sander or copy-trim router bit to cut the oversized part down to exactly the same as the right-sized part.  

If all the above steps are done, the join between the two is usually only visible by the differences in the grain in the two parts.

There are no short-cuts to precision work, but the results will be appreciated long after the sweat has dried.
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