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Borg

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #1 
Hi everyone, i am new to scrolling and i think i have a problem cutting round corners, i say think as im not sure if this is normal or not.
When cutting, say im turning left, when im turning, the blade turns with the wood so the teeth of the blade instead of facing me are 90 degrees to me, which means i have to turn the wood even more, twisting the blade.
As far as i know i am not feeding the wood too fast, im taking my time, it happens regardless of wood thickness and type, although thin ply seems ok.
The blade tension i think is fine, they are unknown pinned type, im sorry i don't know about blade numbers yet so i don't know what they are, just some ones that were in a box given to me with the saw, a cheap cloned Chinese thing 16", you know the type..
Is this normal?
I would be grateful for any help / advice on this, of course if it is normal for blades to twist round with you then fine, im already sort of used to it, im not quite used to the fright you get with braking blades yet though [wink]
KenFM

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Reply with quote  #2 
Borg
A number of things could be causing your problem
1. Do you have good tension on the blade. Flick it with your finger nail and if you get a high ping sound then the tension should be ok
2. If you are using a thick blade say number 10 - 12 and you are trying to do fine work then this will cause your problem.
3. For tight angles you should be using a lower number blade say 3-5 or even as low as number 1
Hope this is of help
Ken (kenFM) 
Borg

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Reply with quote  #3 
Hi Ken, thanks for that, i was starting to think it was the saw but i tried it on my other saw and its the same, they are the only blades i have so i have nothing to compare them with, so when you are cutting, the teeth of the blade are always facing you even on curves ?
Udie

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Reply with quote  #4 
Borg -
Our member Ken Martin has another great post which discusses a Scroll Saw book as well as talks about  the blade always wants to veer to the right.
I've linked that post here for you, I think you will get a lot out of reading that post also.
Ken's Scroll Post.

Scroll saw Blades - take a look at one of our articles found in the Wood Toy Workshop area of the web site.
How to Choose the Correct Scroll Saw Blades - I linked that for you also.

There are many posts about scroll sawing on the Forum, in many different areas.
I would like to suggest that you try the 'Search' function offered by the Forum and do a word search for Scroll Saw to get a list of topics and posts.

Hope this is some help and glad to have you as a member.




Borg

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Reply with quote  #5 
Hi Udie, thanks for the links and the welcome, I did try the search function but I am not talking about the blade veering to the right, what I mean is i need to turn the workpiece 180 degrees to get a 90 degree cut, as when i turn the piece the blade turns with it.

If i am facing north with the saw, the blade teeth are facing south (towards me) if i turn the workpiece to the west, the saw teeth turn with it and also face west, i am now looking at the side of the blade, i need to then turn it more, twisting the blade more to get the cut, this happens if i am doing a left hand or right hand curve regardless.

I am starting to think it is cheap nasty blades so i will order a selection pack of a decent quality and try again. Thanks for your help i will read the links and see what can be done.
Udie

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Reply with quote  #6 
Borg - Well, it really sounds like you have a blade tensioning issue.
   Like KenFM mentioned, a tight blade will give you a ping, some say it should sound like the musical note 'C'. I am going to suggest that you take a look at 'YouTube' and watch the videos on how they make the tight turns.
   There are some great videos out there for beginners. Some even discuss blade tension and what is considered to be acceptable deflection when you push on the blade with a pencil from the side.
   Blade sizes for scroll saws are similar to blade sizes for band saws. The larger the blade the larger the radius you will be able to cut. Again, like KenFM pointed out, smaller/thinner blades will allow you to make very small radius cuts.
   Here another link on the Forum that might interest you. It demonstrates how to check if you blade is 90° to your table surface. Scroll Saw Tune Up.
   Hope some of this helps and do not be shy about asking questions.
I'm sure our members will jump in and support you with useful tips and tricks.
Borg

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #7 
Thanks again, I must admit I didn't even check the saw for level, that's a handy hint to check for 90° with the block of wood though, I will use that method for sure.
im building its own dedicated stand so when that's done I will make an effort to check levels when im bolting it down, Im going to order a mixed pack of Pegas blades to play around with so all being well I should be good to go in a few days [smile]
Ken Martin

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Reply with quote  #8 
Borg
   If you have the tension is OK, one other thing you might try, if your are using a large blade, is to file the back of the blade down with a diamond file.  By rounding the back edges of the blade making the sharp edges round the blade will turn a lot easier.
Also, changing the speed of the blade if it is adjustable, might help.
Good Luck, and keep working on it. The answer will come to you.

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phantom scroller

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Reply with quote  #9 
I think Ken has covered most of this your question you will never turn a large blade in a clean 90deg in thick wood it acts as a clamp,try a smaller blade and keep it moving as you turn or dare I say it a spiral blade. Its a bit like a bandsaw blade when you need to cut bandsaw boxes you turn to a smaller blade to get around the bends. Make sure you blades are new and not worn out.
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Borg

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Reply with quote  #10 
Hi, i think that was my problem, my blades were huge compared to the new ones i got today.
I built my bench, bolted down the saw level and square, put in a new Pegas blade and wow, what a difference..i can now scroll [smile]
I just spent the evening playing around with it on 1 inch oak, absolutely no problems, my circles need work though as they look more like flowers and my straight lines look more like circles but will get there. I did break one blade but it was totally my fault, trying to get back on the line after wandering off i twisted too sharp but we learn from our mistakes [smile]
A couple of issues i need to address, sort my lighting and sort my air blower, squinting my eyes trying to see and blowing on the wood every 10 seconds gets a bit tiresome.
Thanks everyone so much for the tips/advice i can now try my hand at making toys [smile]
BadBob

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Reply with quote  #11 
Use cheap aquarium air pump for a blower.
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ctowne

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Reply with quote  #12 
Borg -
Keep it up, practice, practice, practice.  Glad the blade change helped.  you will love all the things that can be created with this versatile tool.   Happy Scrolling.
Cindy
Muskokamike

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Reply with quote  #13 
<<<< is going to have to pick up a scroll saw.....maybe with the proceeds of my sale this weekend? Pay the utility bills? Ach nooooo MORE TOOLS! lol....
Udie

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Reply with quote  #14 
BadBob - I like the idea of a cheap aquarium pump - good solution and good post.
Borg

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Reply with quote  #15 
The airpump is an aquarium type, wired to the on-off switch, it does work, its just hopeless..not even enough puff to blow a feather so yep I think I need to look for a new one.
Cindy thanks, I have been practicing on 3d deer, my house is full of them now [smile] I still worry that the blades are going to snap again so I haven't been pushing it too hard.
First toy will be the woody wagon and trailer I think as I really love the look of it.
Thanks again everyone for the help [smile]


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