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Posts: 13
Reply with quote  #1 
   I was spray painting my toys and was wondering what the best sequence is for painting. Is it best to spray side A then let it dry then sand and repeat 3 -4 coats until desired finish is achieved on Side A and then flip the part over and do that same for Side B or do you do one coat at a time on both sides until finished. 
   I am trying to figure the most simple system.

Posts: 118
Reply with quote  #2 
   I drill a 6mm hole 6mm deep in the base of my toys if I am going to spray paint all one colour. I then insert a 6mm dowel X 150mm and wedge that in a 50mm x 75mm plank.  You can then spray paint the whole toy allow it to dry and over coat as required. 
   I trust this is of help

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Reply with quote  #3 
Thanks Ken
That sounds like that will work quite well.
   One question though. When you say that you drill a hole in the base of the toy what do you mean? Do you drill the hole where it wont be seen when it is assembled?
   If you have a pic to show me what you mean that would really help.
Thanks Again
Ken Martin

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Reply with quote  #4 
Hi Siemans

You have asked a great question.
KenFM has given you one great answer.  I have not done that yet, but sounds like a great idea.

I use Krylon spray paints most of the time when spray painting.  Rust-Oleum works great as well.
I want to tell you about two different ways to paint parts, one for small parts and one for the bigger parts.

Small part painting.
Udie once gave me an idea about using nails and hot glue for holding small parts.  If you put a spot of hot glue on the top of the nail then glue it right away, you will have a handle to hold the small part.  This works great when you are painting parts that have been masked on one side or if you are painting dowels that will be set in a hole in your toy.
Photo 4885 Shows tools needed:  Nails and a glue gun.DSC04885_mini.JPG 
Photo 4886
DSC04886_mini.JPG  This gives you a handle to hold the small part while painting all sides.

Photo 4888 How to hold up the small part once painted.  Answer Below
DSC04888_mini.JPG  I like to use styrofoam coolers, (you can use any styrofoam) and just stick the nail in the foam when finished painting to dry.  Then when ready to sand between coats of primer or paint just use the nail as a handle again and put it back in the same hole in the styrofoam. If you do break off the nail while handling it, no big deal, just glue it back on.

This works great for small parts.  Tip:  I use a plastic glove on the hand holding the nail while painting, because you will get paint on your hand.

Photos 4894 and 4898 shows several different parts being held with the nail and hot glue trick.
Photo 4894 shows a hitch piece for a truck and trailer.  The bottom part will be set in wood that is why it is masked to give me a plain wood surface for the glue to stick to.  Tip:  You never want to glue pieces together that have been painted.  The glue bond becomes stronger than the paint bond and sometimes can pull the paint right off the toy part.DSC04895_mini.JPG

 Photo 4898 below shows Axles ready for painting.  I only paint the ends of each axle to match the color of the body of the vehicle.  So yes, the hot glue nail trick will work on small rounded surfaces.  You see here the axle
DSC04898_mini.JPG  This works great because you don't get paint on anything but the ends where you want it and you can easily hold the piece while paint.

Painting larger parts.
As I said before I use a lot of coolers to paint on, and I paint outside.  
Photo 4889 shows you my very high tec paint station.DSC04889_mini.JPG You can see the table is just a flat 4x8 sheet of used plywood someone gave me sitting on two saw horses.  Then you see the coolers, then you see a turn table on the top of each cooler and several B-B-Q sticks on top of the turn tables.  Turn tables are very cheep and the B-B-Q sticks I buy at the local market, I think they were $2.00 for 100 sticks.  The sticks keep the part being painted from sitting flat on the turn tables, which helps control the over spray and drips.

Painting, which was you original question:
Photo 4909 below shows a truck on the table for painting.
This by the way is not the best way to paint a toy in different colors.  When painting three parts that will be glued together later, it is best to mask the mating parts and paint them separately then remove the mask and glue them together.  I made a mistake when I painted the parts.  I had painted the outside parts silver and the inside part blue.  Well I learned the hard way silver is very hard to keep a perfect paint surface when clamped together.  So I took the silver off and will re-paint the outside parts black.
This required the middle blue section to be masked before painting.
I have put the part on the turn table to be painted.
1.  I like to paint the sides and the top at one time. (using Krylon paint in good weather you only have to wait an hour for it to dry before you can turn it over.)
2.  When the paint has dried, and I am ready to paint the bottom side, I ALWAYS sand the primed or painted part including the bottom that has not been primed or painted yet, because of over spray.
Note:  If you don't sand the part before painting the bottom you will have a rough surface because of the over spray.
3.  Now you have turned the part over and are ready to paint or prime the bottom and the 2nd coat on the sides.
4.  Re sand everything when dry to remove any over spray.  
5.  Now turn the part over again and put the 2nd coat on the top, and repaint the sides again.  This gives you three coats on the sides and two coats on the top.

Note:  Priming:  On the first coat of primer, I sand very aggressively with a sand paper foam block with 220 grit paper on it. Photo 4938.
DSC04938_mini.JPG  In the photo above you see 3 sanding blocks.  These are the blocks used by nail people to buff fingernails.  They come in different grits and can be purchased in beauty supply stores.  
You might remove some of the paint from the edges but do not worry, because you are going to put on a second coat of paint or primer.
After the 2nd coat of primer I use a buffing pad to smooth the surface.  
Photo 4939 Shows the synthetic pads I like to use.  
These pads are a synthetic material that comes in different grits.  They are the same as using very fine steel wool pads, but with out the mess of steel wool.  
On the 2nd coat of primer I like to use the green pads(they are like using 00 Steel wool) before I start painting.
I like to use the same process on the painted surfaces.  After the first coat I will use the buffing blocks or the green pad, then after the 2nd or finish coat I will use the white pad.  (they are like using 0000 Steel Wool).  You are just buffing the surface, and will be amazed at how much they improve the look of you spray paint.
Most paints will leave a film on the surface and the white pads remove the film without hurting the surface of the paint.

These pads can also be used when painting with acrylic craft paints.  Acrylic craft primers and paints almost leave a dull look.  By buffing them out between coats of primer and paints you will be amazed at how much different the surface will look.  It will have a smooth shinny surface, which makes the second coat of primer or paint look much better.
These pads can be bought at quality wood parts stores.
Important;  This tip also came from Udie.

By using the methods above I can get a really smooth shinny surface when spray painting.
You saw the truck on the paint table, and the photo 4918 below will show you the end result.
I hope some of the hints and tips above will help you paint better with spray paints.
I know there are many other ways to paint, and some of them might be a lot better, but this is what works for me.

If you have any questions you can contact me through the forum, or you can e-mail me at:

Please feel free to ask any question, any time.  There are many quality craft men and women here on the forum with all kinds of great answers.

Kenneth W Martin

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Posts: 1,179
Reply with quote  #5 
seimensj - KenFM and Ken Martin have posted some great methods for spray painting and what to do after you have sprayed them and need a place to let them try.
I use the hot melt glue and nail method quite a lot and have demonstrated it in articles and videos.
I believe KenFM's drying rack he mentioned is very similar to the rack I use.  
Here are couple of photos from some of the articles.

53 Completed Fenders.jpg 


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Posts: 238
Reply with quote  #6 
lots of good info here i can't realy add more as i paint with a brush never got on with a spay paint.
Gary Wisbey

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Posts: 13
Reply with quote  #7 
Ken and Udie
   Thank you so much for all the info and pictures! That is exactly what I was looking for! You truly went above and beyond on answering my questions.
Thanks Again![smile]

Ken Martin

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Posts: 988
Reply with quote  #8 
   We just touched the surface, because I know so little.
If there are any more questions, just have to ask.
Someone here will know an answer.
I hope the info helps.

Kenneth W Martin

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Posts: 238
Reply with quote  #9 
what i forgot to add was when i paint i put one coat on let it dry then give it a light rub with 320g sand paper then add the next coat and do the same again i find that gives the best finish for me if i am using mdf i seal with mix of pva glue and water and let dry and then give a light sand with 320g.
Gary Wisbey

Posts: 66
Reply with quote  #10 
Fantastic, thanks for sharing information and photos.

Posts: 88
Reply with quote  #11 
Can I just say that I am using this wonderful trick of hot gluing a nail to the piece and sticking it in a piece of styrofoam to let it dry?  One of the many thousand tricks I have learned on this site and continue to learn.  Thank you one and all![biggrin]
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