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allend200

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I am new to toy making. I am having trouble spray painting evenly. Is there a brush on clear coat? I have polyurethane coating that I use for my wooden sail boat parts. Can that be used over acrylic paints?
Udie

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Reply with quote  #2 
allend200
There are many craft paint top coat finishes you can apply by brush.
Indoor/outdoor, gloss, satin, matte and thick gloss.
All will provide a durable quality finish to your projects and all are compatible with acrylic paints.
   With respect to your question 'Can Polyurethane be applied to Acrylic Paint?'
The best thing to do is conduct a little experiment.
Paint a piece of wood using the different types and manufactures of the acrylic paints you use most often.
After allowing them to cure, apply your polyurethane and examine the results.
   You will quickly discover if there are any negative results, such as smearing, bubbling, etc.
Better to see what happens to you test piece rather than your completed project.
Hope this helps.
allend200

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Reply with quote  #3 
Thank You.
I will try your tips
Ken Martin

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Reply with quote  #4 
Good Answer Udie

   In my limited experience I have been able to apply Polys, and clear coats over acrylic paints both brushed on and sprayed on.
   However, I would do as Udie suggested before you apply over a finished toy.
Sometimes I think the weather and/or humidity can affect the way paints affect each other.
   Tip:  The longer you can let a paint cure before you put on the finish coats of Poly or Clear Coat the better.  To know when a paint is completely cured you can smell it.  If you smell any paint smell the paint is not completely cured.  The odor or gas (whatever it is) escaping from the painted surface can get trapped under the finish coat and create a cloudy look or sometimes little bubbles.
   I am the most impatient person out there, and always want to see what the finished product will look like, so I often times have sprayed or brushed on the finish product to soon.
   What I do now when I have just finished painting a toy is set it aside and start something else for a couple of days.  Then go back and finish coat the 1st toy.  This has helped a great deal with getting a better finial finish.
Just some thoughts.

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Kenneth W Martin
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Sdaupanner

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Reply with quote  #5 
   Not that I have any real life experiences with placing poly over a colored or dyed surface I have done a lot of applying first the stain and then wiping off the excess and allowing the stain to dry mostly for the proper tone color. Once this is attained I start with a base coat of Poly usually Min-Wax and I thin it to a point that it runs like water spraying this coat on and then allow it to dry fully. After it has dried fully running your hand over the finish it feels a bit like sandpaper I find this is because if grain raising ability of the products such as Min-Wax have. After this is dry then sand down the area with about 200 grain sand paper till it feels smooth and even a reduction to 400 and then 800 grain depending on how fussy you want to be. Now comes the repeat this step for at least two more coats so you have a build up if three base coat using the reduced Poly mixture after allowing each coat to dry and the sanding in between coats then make your next layer or two of poly full strength and I would use something such as Cynthia's Paste wax I my self do this on Hoosiers and finish out with several coats of Butchers Wax and have had pretty good results this way. I think that my way is kind of a long way around the block to achieve a quick good looking finish but in my case I don't have a three year old taking it for a test drive in the outback so anyway this is the way that I finish my Hoosiers and the finish has lasted on one of them for over 7 years which I feel is pretty good.
Don
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