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Ken Martin

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Posts: 988
Reply with quote  #1 

I built a few of the new plains and need some help from my friend on the Forum.  
The plan set is the new Quick N Easy Airplane Play Pals.
I wanted to build this set because I thought it would be quick and easy.  So I planned to build 8 of them in two days.  Well, I did not make it,  it took 2 & 1/2 days.  Still not to bad for me, so I think we can keep the cost down for craft shows.
DSC07058_mini.JPG  DSC07060_mini.JPG 
The bodies of the planes are pine, and the wings and other parts are popular baked.
Interesting issue here is that when I cut the 1st two tale slots, I cut them to big for the 1/4" wings.  So I took some 3/8" wood and cut out the wings then sanded it down to fit.
That worked OK.  So then I was more careful when cutting the tail slots.  However, when sanding the wings it made the slots to big again. [image] Answer: cut just a hair bigger and sand the wings less.
First the planes are fun and easy to build, but here are my issues.
1.  I can never cut round window holes without getting a lot of tear out.
        I used a Forster bit, and then used a dermal tool and could not get them smooth.
2  When cutting the jet, the wing goes through the body.  Well you want it tight, so I cut it close, then sand the slot to fit the wing.
        Question:  If you paint it before you glue it in, you will scratch the wing up sliding it in.   How best to get the wing in place?  Paint in first then glue it in or glue it in then paint?
Paint on this model is blue and white metallic craft paint brushed on. 

I painted the wings after I glued them in which created a lot of extra work trying not to get white paint on the blue bodies.  I was able to get 4 coats of the blue on the bodies the 2nd day, and then glued the wings on and could do two coats of white. The last two coats of white on the wings had to wait for the 3rd day.
Is there a better way?  Ideas?

DSC07076_mini.JPG  DSC07072_mini.JPG 
 3.  I used polyurethane (brush on) for the plan wooden ones.
         I could not get it to cover really smooth, especially on the end grain pieces.
     Question:  Should I have used some kind of sealer on the planes before I used the  Polyurethane?

Any ideas would be helpful.  This was my 1st attempt at a brush on poly, and found out I am not very good at it.


 Thanks in advance for any ideas you guys can offer.  
Remember, although this project is supposed to be quick and easy, I still would like to iron out the bugs in my workmanship.

Kenneth W Martin

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Posts: 724
Reply with quote  #2 
Good looking plane sets Ken.
I have used sealer on some of my models and that works very well. I put on one coat, after dry sand lightly with 400 or 600 or higher grit, then add second coat and sand one more time.
As far as the wing painting goes I would try using painter tape on the fuselage then paint the wings. It should not mess up your paint. Just a thought
As far as poly goes I use wipe on poly to good effect on other projects. It goes on really well and dry's quickly ( you can't play around in other words LOL )
As far as tear out I have found for me that speed and how sharp my bit is makes a huge difference.

I suspect i did not give and actual answers here but wanted to chime in on what seems to work well for me 90% of the time LOL

Ed - Making sawdust in the shop [wave]
Ken Martin

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Posts: 988
Reply with quote  #3 
Thank you ed357sw
I have not heard of wipe on poly before, so I will look into learning about that.  
Painters tape, the simplest answers are usually the best.  KISS.(Keep It Simple Stupid)
When painting the white I was so worried about being careful I did not think of the obvious.
So good to have people to talk to and open up the thinking cap again.
Again thank you.

Kenneth W Martin
Dolf Joubert

Posts: 124
Reply with quote  #4 
Nice job!
   I experience similar problems with the drilling of holes. One way to overcome it is to drill halfway through, turn the piece around and drill from the other side. To make sure the holes line up, I would suggest that you first drill a hole right through using a smaller drill. This hole can then act as a guide for the correct size drill. 
   I agree, speed of the drill and sharpness of you drills are important. Tear out can also occur if your piece is not properly supported on a piece of scrap wood. I have also found that certain woods are more prone to tear out. Especially your softer wood types and plywood.
   Just a tongue in the cheek remark : how about making the propeller slightly bigger and more curvy so that it looks more like a real propellor. With the aeroplane in hand, kids like to spin the propellor whilst playing. Just a thought!
Ken Martin

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Posts: 988
Reply with quote  #5 
Hi Dolf
   Great ideas and I like the idea of the propeller being just a bit bigger.  Maybe not wider, but longer.  I will try that on the next ones if these go over like I think they will.
   One change I did make to the plan was to use the same wing on both planes, because I thought the curved back wing from the jet, just looked better, and it eliminated one part to cut.
I will pay attention to your drilling ideas.  
Thanks for the help.

Kenneth W Martin
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