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FarsiderCarvings

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I actually tried some MDF for the running boards on this one since I have seen it mentioned so many times here on the forums. I found it very easy to scroll and to sand. Even the finish goes on nice and flat. 

I'm thinking that with my next round on for this build, I will use the MDF. 1/2" and 3/4". I will make my cuts and then glue the 3/4" material together to make the 1 1/2" material needed. 

As you can see on the front of the tractor view on this set of pictures, the hood has a slight angle to it. My Harbor freight scroll saw and a new blade still didn't make the cut. Pun intended. 

IMG_2338.JPG  IMG_2339.JPG  IMG_2340.JPG  IMG_2341.JPG  IMG_2342.JPG  IMG_2343.JPG 



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phantom scroller

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Reply with quote  #2 
Good work great trucks.[thumb]
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FarsiderCarvings

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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantom scroller
Good work great trucks.[thumb]

Thank you Roly.


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FarsiderCarvings

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The entire fleet together for the 1st time. 


IMG_2346.JPG 



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john lewman

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Reply with quote  #5 
These are absolutely beautiful. Do you make these for fun or to sell?

BadBob

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Reply with quote  #6 
I really like your trucks.

In my opinion from my own personal testing of MDF for making toys is that wood is much better.

MDF  Thoughts
  • Cuts well.
  • Sucks up paint like a sponge especially the edges.
  • Requires priming and sealing. This can be done with lots of paint.
  • Sands easy.
  • Makes lots of dust like powder.
  • The dust is hard to filter like smoke in some cases.
  • Fine dust is the worst kin.
  • The dust gets into everything.
  • Works good for larger blocky pieces.
  • Breaks easy especially small thin parts.
  • Dropping a part on a hard surface can ruin it or damage it to the point where it isn't worth the trouble to repair.
  • Its cheap to buy.
  • Additional finishing cost in time and money may make it more expensive that wood.
  • It's not wood.
  • It's flat.
  • It doesn't warp if stored properly.

There are different densities and manfacturing processes so the MDF you get at the big box store today may not be the same as you get the next time you buy some.


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calhanton

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Reply with quote  #7 
The best and cheapest way to seal the edges on mdf is coat them with sanding sealer and then sand the edges with 320 grit. When you paint the edges then come up as smooth as the other surfaces and the other coats do not soak in at all. The water basedsealer is much cheaper and dries in 30 minutes. A 4 litre tin lasts longer than forever and I only paid about $20 for it. Bunnings only have the expensive Cabots version which uses much more as well.
FarsiderCarvings

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Reply with quote  #8 

I seal my MDF with Shellac. I never have a problem with it soaking up paint. I like working with MDF. I have been using it for years for cabinetry and trim. I see no problem with it as long as it's used with a grain of common sense.  

For trim, I hit it with 2 coats of paint and primer in one and it's a done deal. 

Wood is nice but I prefer not to paint wood.  

The dust is bad but then again, I use nice finish blades on my table saw. Even oak dust seems to be powder. 


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ed357sw

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Reply with quote  #9 
Just remember to use really good dust collection and be sure to wear a very good PPE as MDF dust is nasty and gets into everything... Just saying
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