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elmsfordlt

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Reply with quote  #1 
What glue do most of you use to attach the axles to the wheels?
garywisbey

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Reply with quote  #2 
most of the time i just use wood pvc glue it seems to work well for me and it don't cost that much to buy  
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cynthia lewman

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Reply with quote  #3 
Hi elmsfordlt,

We recommend using Elmer's Glue-All or Elmer's Professional Carpenter's Glue. Both work well. I've attached a PDF file that talks about glue that you might find useful.

pdf Favorite Glues for Wood Toymaking.pdf 

When gluing axles to wheels or gluing together toy parts it's important to remember that the glue won't adhere to painted surfaces. You can either paint the toy after it's assembled which can require a very steady hand if using more than one color, or paint the parts before assembly and masking the surfaces that receive glue.

The mask on basic surfaces is created with masking tape. For example, a wood toy fender attached to a body will have masking tape on the glue surface as it is primed and painted. An Xacto knife with a number 11 blade is used to cut the surplus tape from around the outside edge the part to be painted. The other wood parts that receive the painted fender are also masked over the area that will receive glue to prevent paint from covering the glue area surfaces.

elmsfordlt

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Reply with quote  #4 
Thanks, I figured to use either PVC or carpenters glue.
Udie

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Reply with quote  #5 
Cynthia - great PDF on the glues, excellent post. I would like to add that none of the glues used by themselves are gap fillers.  However when mixed with sawdust can be used to fill gaps, sanded and painted to produce flawless results.
cynthia lewman

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Reply with quote  #6 
Hi Udie - Would you recommend the sawdust technique for filling plywood edges too? We get a lot of emails from customers asking about the best method for filling edges and then painting the parts.
Udie

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Cynthia: Ref: Plywood holes/voids. Sometimes the holes/voids we see are where knot holes have been cut out and other times we are seeing expansion gaps used in laminating the various layers. No matter what they are they are annoying. They always seem to appear on visible curved edges or in the corner of the piece we are making. Sometimes they are deep and other times shallow. Deep holes/voids can be easily filled using the glue and sawdust paste and can be done in such a way that will allow you to sand, prime and paint without detection. Shallow holes/voids are more easily filled using common spackle, wood filler, drywall compound, nail hole filler and even automotive filler. There are times you may wish to do a two (2) step process ... file  the deep holes/voids with glue/sawdust paste, let dry and then apply one of the above fillers for top layer of the repair. Sand, prime and paint and you are done. I would be very interested to hear other solutions from the community, so please, jump in and tell us what you do.

cynthia lewman

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Reply with quote  #8 
Thanks Udie! Great tips.
elmsfordlt

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Reply with quote  #9 
Udie, great tips.  Thanks.
Ken Martin

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Reply with quote  #10 
Hi All

I have just started using Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty for filling the small holes and tear out you see on end grain when I am going to be painting a project anyway.
Get the single part putty not the two part.

This stuff is awesome and very easy to use.
When you need to fill these little tear outs in end grain of regular wood or plywood just rub it on with something, I use my finger.  It fills easy and drys fast, and will sand off very clean.  It is red in color so you can not use it on wood you want to leave plain, but this is great to use on unfinished wood before you prime and paint it.  Note:  it will not stick to painted surfaces, so use it before you prime or paint.
I use a lot of plywood and construction grade lumber and sometimes you just can not sand away the little pits in the end grain.

I bought mine at a store that supplies Auto body shops, but I think you can get it in most Auto Parts stores.  A tube of 4.5oz only cost $4.11 and last forever, so that is another plus

Give this Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty I think you might like it.

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Davy

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Reply with quote  #11 
Greetings from Davy in Denver.
One glue I hann't seen mentioned is Cyanoacrylate adhesive commonly called CA Glue.
Another common name is Super Glue.
I work at Woodcraft and am frequently ask what is the best glue? My response is, what are you gluing?
CA glue has two interesting features, It sets up in 30 seconds. Second you can use it with an "Activator" which turns it into an instant bonding glue.
Put a dab of CA on a part and spray activator on the other surface. When they touch it's done.
It can glue metal to wood, wood to wood, repair ceramics, and many other things.
WARNING, if you get any on your fingers they may end up stuck together. Use rubber gloves if there's a chance of that.
whit

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Reply with quote  #12 
If you happen to get your fingers stuck with CA glue, acetone or fingernail polish remover will break down the glue and free the digits.  It'll also SERIOUSLY dry out your skin so don't make a regular habit of it.  [wink]
Doc

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Reply with quote  #13 
Also, if you add CA Glue to a hole filling with baking soda, it will fill holes with a solid white blob that can be sanded easily. Handy if you are going to paint over the area anyway.

RC Modelers and others use it all the time, just like turners use CA glue as a finish.

Great stuff just keep a bottle of acetone handy when you use it.

Don't ask [rolleyes]

I also find it handy to have a syringe available to squirt tiny amounts of wood glue onto some of my work - especially if using peg and wheel combinations. Helps keep the glue where you need it.

For Aussie/Kiwis amongst use, Selley's Aquadhere (internal and external) are good toy making woodworking glues.

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